Free Choice

Mikoshi Festival

Back in late September, in the busy part of Shibuya, a well known shopping district in Tokyo, I was lucky enough to witness a ‘mikoshi’ making its way through the streets. We had just learned about this briefly in class, and was reluctant if I would ever have a chance to witness this Shinto festival firsthand.

A ‘mikoshi’ is a portable shrine which encases the spirit of a ‘kami’ or deity and usually constructed out of wood and adorned in elaborate silver and gold decorations. The ‘mikoshi’ are carried with two or four poles which support the structure and carried on the shoulders of several dozen parishioners who wear a hapi (a festival coat) and tabi (special socks) . The mikoshi are brought to a Shinto shrine so that the ‘kami’ can enter the mikoshi and then carried around the neighborhood. The mikoshi are usually carried the duration of the entire weekend, and needless to say, our group ran into the same Shinto group of people later that evening, still joyously carrying the structure dancing through the streets.

These festivals which include the mikoshi often take place in the summer or fall and the procession is paraded in order to bring good fortune and to local residences and homes. Various festivals take place in different areas of Japan and in some areas, many mikoshi may gather together in a large area. Different teams of Shinto parishioners carry their own mikoshi, and in its enthusiasm, the atmosphere can grow rowdy and there is a great risk for accidents that may occur during these large gatherings.

I would personally distance myself from those kinds of large gatherings, in order to reduce the risk of injury, though it would be interesting to observe these enormous gatherings, witnessing different groups of Shinto followers boasting their mikoshi which have been so meticulously constructed. Yet having the chance at all, to observe these firsthand, even in the busy streets of Tokyo, reminds me that Shinto is a way of life that is not exclusive but rather incorporated in present day.

More links:

Mikoshi: More information about the Mikoshi

A Photo Collection of a Mikoshi Festival in Yokosuka

A Take on the Man Bag

This week’s topic on Gender in Japan is perhaps one of the more difficult topics to write about. Yet in my two months of living here in Japan, the question which pertain to blurring gender lines is why so many men in Japan seem to be carry large over-the-shoulder bags that are similar to their women's counterparts. In particular, many of the young male students in Kansai carry these large tote-like bags to hold their various items. Questions which stem from this would include: What is the origin of handbags for men, especially in Japan? Why are these kinds of bags so popular here and not back in the United States?

The answer to the question of the origin of the male bag was difficult to search, and the only tidbit I was able to track down was a popularity which emerged in the 1970s. One can safely assume that this fad faded out for a period of time and was reintroduced into the fashion world. The two styles that I have noticed the most included a sling bag (slightly smaller than an average messenger bag) and totes which have two handles and can be slung on the shoulder.

For the American college men I interact with everyday, they would agree that carrying a purse would be practical, but they can usually hold all the items they need in their pockets, which include: keys, a wallet, and a cell phone. So why would these students vote to carry these kinds of bags?

By asking a few of my newfound friends here, the reasons I’ve received were twofold: 1) Fashion. The standard for men’s fashion here in Japan vastly differs than what you would find on an Upstate New York university campus. The best way to describe it would be more experimental in the combinations of solid, bright colors and patterns in their outfits. 2) Convenience. The average Japanese Kansai Gaidai student commutes to school for about one to two hours per day. It would be impossible to carry all of one's possessions in their pockets and slinging a bag over is a more convenient option than a backpack.

Even Japanese magazines cater to their clientele, promoting this kind of fashion. My Western friend originally wanted to buy his first magazine in Japan ‘Fine Boys’ and wondered why the cover boasted a “free gift.” He discovered to find a sizeable tote bag as his free gift. Inside the magazine contained a spread which provided suggestions on how to sport his new bag depending on his outfit choice. He explained that he felt more comfortable carrying it here in Japan than he would back in the States. The fact that more young males tended to carry these same bags and that they were not necessarily a "women's" fashion item in this part of the world blurs these distinct gender-specific fashion boundaries one would find in the United States.

More Links:

PingMag: A short article on men's handbags in Shibuya, Tokyo: Fashion HQ in Tokyo.

Bartman905: What might a man carry in his "man bag"?

Globalization of Food

Globalization covers a broad array of possible topics with Western influences adapted to the East, with its architecture, its fashion, and technology. Yet, the one topic that I could write for days about would be centered on food. There have been some famous examples in history where Marco Polo’s journey to China and discovering noodles there lent itself to the introduction of pasta back to Europe, and to recent times with the introduction of MacDonald’s and Starbucks Coffee to this part of the world. Seeing familiar establishments like these makes me forget that I am in a foreign country, trying to acclimate and immerse myself in a new culture. However, those differences are blending together, through Japan’s adoption and adaptation of other nations’ foods and the readily availability of Japanese food outside of Japan.

‘Fusion’ cuisine back in the United States carries an air of the exotic with European or Asian food often being combined together to create a new taste in order to allure its customers. Yet, here in Japan, this idea of ‘fusion’ seems quite difference. In fact, it is more of an adoption of the Western food that I have had before or ‘yoshoku’ (Japanized Western-style dish). For example, when I was in Dotunburi Street in Osaka (One of the most famous streets in Osaka, Japan, known for its neon lights brightly glowing at night) I tried ‘doria’ for dinner. We ate at a Western Style restaurant (For reasons that we were poor, but not to stray) and found that this restaurant had adapted its ingredients and dishes to match the Japanese palette. Indeed, here in Japan, expect to see a Teriyaki Burger from Mickey D’s on the menu versus a ‘Big and Tasty’ you would find in the United States. The former addresses the adaptation of a burger to Japan, the latter exemplifies the idea of 'big is good' in the West.

Nowadays, thanks to technology and the Internet, accessibility to other types of cuisine has become easier and more readily available. Mitsuwa Marketplace is a growing chain of supermarkets which sell various kinds of Japanese ingredients and food in the United States. Here, you can easily find some Japanese crackers and snacks, and pick up ingredients to make your favorite Japanese dishes. I visited Mitsuwa Marketplace shortly before my arrival to Japan. This visit whet my palette for Japanese food and I realized how easy it was to pick up the same snack I would find here in Osaka. Furthermore, there is an ‘Online Shopping’ section of their website. You could have the order shipped to your home if you lived in the United States! This surely would not have existed over 15 years ago.

(Picture credit to: The Hiroshima Brand)

Though you could obtain famous local treats such as Miyajima’s Momiji manjus (small waffles shaped like a maple leaf with various types of filling) by ordering them from outside the country, I would never trade the experience of eating one that was freshly made by one of the shops diligently producing them every hour. Perhaps it’s more than the idea that I readily buy it elsewhere in the world, but I wouldn’t be experiencing Japan, sharing in those opportunities at its epicenter.

You can find out more here:

Momiji Manju: This blog shares more information about Momiji Manjus

Mitsuwa Marketplace : The website is written in English and you can also place an order for some Japanese treats!

Doria : After some searching, it is actually a French food which was adapted into Japanese cuisine.

Undokai - Sports Festival

Last Sunday, I was invited out by my host mother to attend her school’s annual sports festival. Little did I know, I was in for a pleasant surprise.

The sports festival, undokai , is an annual event held in autumn . Preparations for this event are made far in advance, the students practice for these events about a month or so in advance. This special day is usually held for the students to show off their athletic abilities for their family and friends. Everyone in the community joined together to watch including parents, friends, and alumni.

Though I was only able to attend the afternoon portion of the day, the sports festival was filled with exuberance and excitement.

The entire elementary school was divided into three team colors of red, blue, and white. School competitions in the States are based upon individual success, yet all of these games were group activities. These included a baton relay race, a game where four people must balance a large ball between them, and more. Even the cheerleading was unified and organized as they cheer for their teammates.

This sense of community was further exemplified in the execution of the events. Often times, “(Color) Ganbatte! (Good luck (Color))” was spoken through a microphone as a word of encouragement for the team in currently in last place. There was no one who was left behind in these events, and the activity did not conclude until the last child crossed the finish line.

The last event was a display for the audience. All of the sixth graders participated in a dance and a performance for the audience. These included a few acrobatic-like displays and human pyramids. One could not help but admire the work and preparation that these students to put in in order to show their family and friends.

Still curious?

Check out SoftyPapa’s Blog for more information about Sports Festivals:

Riding the Yonsama Wave

When exploring Japanese pop culture and entertainment, it’s easy to think of what is considered “popular”: anime, manga (comic books), fashion, etc. Yet, these things target a youthful audience of teens and young women. The population I wish to investigate is the one who will swoon at one word - “Yon-sama.” The Korean television and movie star, Bae Yong Joon,37, is colloquially known as “Yon-Sama” in Japan. Don’t expect legions of teens to be following his every move, you are more likely to find him adored within the middle aged female population. Rather than asking why a movie star’s fan base mainly consists of an older generation, the more interesting question to ask would be why a Korean actor is so popular in Japan.

Briefly, Yon-sama’s rise to fame originated with the Japanese broadcast of the Korean television series ‘Winter Sonata’ (Korean: 겨울연가 Japanese:冬のソナタ) in 2002. Since then, the popularity of the series, and consequently the actor’s, exploded with commercials, television series, and more in subsequent years.

Who could I ask to better understand Yon-sama’s popularity? The answer: a fan. My host mother fits in within the ideal demographic. I was able to ask a few short questions (with my limited Japanese) to her in order to analyze his popularity. My host mother answered that the portrayal of his character lets her think about an idea of true love, and that his character’s sweet, thoughtful, and attractive qualities are some of the things she adores. Her fan girl pleasure is expressed through her book, which contain the script of the series, pictured below:

Then why is this character so popular among the middle aged population and not with the modern youth? According to a few female Kansai students, these women are reminded of their first love. Though they could not give a reason to why they did not like Yon-sama as much as their older counterparts, their answers to why the older women may adore him are the same.

One wonders who the next “Yon-sama” will be, or will there be anyone else who can supercede his success in Japan? Can one of the series in this aisle below contain the answer?

For more information:

Don't know who YonSama is? Check out his profile at HanCinema.

The official website for "Winter Sonata" (Note: This website is in Korean.)

A short article which covers Yon-sama's return to Japan to promote Winter Sonata can be found here.

Neighborhood Hirakata Koen

The one thing you can't miss when you step away from the Hirakata-Koen (Hirakata Park) train station would be the enormous ferris wheel, a trademark of this local amusement park. This neighborhood consists of a small area with a pachinko (an arcade center) and a few convenience stores, and a main road which eventually leads to bustling downtown Hirakata City. Yet by taking a few steps into one of the side streets, this lively scene transforms into a serene residential area. It would be hard to believe that such a quiet neighborhood still exist so close to a busy commuter center.

One month has already flown by since my arrival to Japan, and by observing daily life here on my commute to school, and a few opportunities to get to know the natives of this area of Hirakata, I am beginning to see bits of the Japanese lifestyle unfold before my eyes. These include, but are not limited to, how much safer this neighborhood is than the one in the United States and the sense of community and care neighbors have for one another.

This curve in the road may seem very ordinary, but I pass by this curve on my way home from Kansai Gaidai every evening. Early evening, after the sun sets, students walk their bikes up this hill from jukku (cram school), where they receive additional education beyond their school hours, and mothers carry their groceries home. During my first week here, a group of friends and I chatted by a nearby local park. Though it was past dark, young children blissfully played nearby, under a close eye of their parents. This was a sight to behold since back in the United States, children usually return home before dark. When I recounted this tale to my Japanese professor and also to my host parents, they agreed that though some areas could be more abunai (dangerous) than others, Japan was a safe country.

This following picture may seem a bit odd, but I feel that it exemplifies (at least conceptually) the idea of community. This picture is also taken on my walk to the local bus stop. It's a popular spot for crows and other birds to rest on the power lines...and excrete onto the sidewalk below. It is the only place that I've seen in my area, thus far, where many birds gather in one place. This past month, I was invited to an event with my host mother. She was eager to introduce me to her co-workers, whom she also regarded as good friends. As we engaged in conversation with each other, by the way they joked around with each other and shared stories about their families, and other topics, it was unmistakable that their bonds with each other were far beyond just work buddies. They asked each other heartfelt questions, and one person even brought her recent harvest from her garden to divide them among her co-workers. One teacher was recently diagnosed with the H1N1 virus (better known as the colloquial 'swine flu') and all the teachers stayed late in order to finish errands at school and made sure to check in on the teacher's health. However limited my experiences may be, I am eager to see how else the community cares for each other. The elementary school has a sports festival coming up. Perhaps everyone in the neighborhood will join in on the festivities!